Selecting the Appropriate Meadow Species

A successful wildflower meadow is a complex, interactive plant community, not just a collection of individuals. Choose a mixture of native species that, over a period of time, will naturally sort themselves out; the species best adapted to the site will be the ones that thrive after the first few years. Inventory the site and its microhabitats, such as wet, low-lying areas, shady areas, or open fields, and determine the species best suited to and most likely to succeed in each area.

You’ll want to plant perennials, annuals, and biennials in your meadow, as well as a variety of native species that will provide color throughout the growing season. When in doubt, check to make sure the plants you’re choosing aren’t on your state’s noxious weed list.

Gardening for Butterflies

Because butterflies are attracted to flowers, it is easy to plant a garden that both you and they can enjoy. Some of the species you may attract are listed in the table at right. A butterfly-friendly garden contains both adult nectar plants and caterpillar host plants. A few common vegetables also serve as caterpillar host plants. Many butterfly gardeners plant extra vegetables, enough for them and their caterpillars. As an added bonus, butterfly gardens often attract hummingbirds.

A successful butterfly garden has several basic elements, listed below.

A sunny location
Since butterflies are cold blooded and need to be warm to fly and feed, you should plant your garden in a sunny area sheltered from the wind. Storms and windy days can batter a butterfly to bits. If there is no natural shelter, plant a windscreen such as butterfly bush or another flowering shrub that can provide both food and shelter.

Fall is an excellent time to grow many vegetable crops. During this season the gardener can take advantage of cooler temperatures and more plentiful moisture. Many spring-planted crops such as lettuce and spinach tend to bolt, or produce seed, and become bitter in response to the long, hot summer days. Fall gardening helps extend your gardening season so that you can continue to harvest produce after earlier crops have faded.

Planting - Remove all previous crop residues and any weed growth. Completely prepare the soil by rototilling or spading 6-8 inches deep. If spring crops were heavily fertilized, then no additional fertilization may be needed. However, 1-2 pounds of a general analysis fertilizer, such as 12-12-12, may be applied per 100 square feet of bed area. Be sure to thoroughly mix the fertilizer with the soil. Some gardeners prefer to sidedress the plants with 1 pound of 10-10- 10 per 25-30 feet of row placed 6-12 inches from the plants. Apply the sidedressing 2-3 weeks after germination if plants appear to be growing slowly.

This publication provides recommendations and techniques for growing quality vegetables in a limited space.

Site Selection and Preparation
Choose a site that receives at least six hours of sun each day. Vegetables grown in shady locations are usually less productive and of poor quality.

Planning
Plan your garden on paper before planting. Determine the amount of space you have available, then decide what crops to grow. Consider incorporating some of these space-saving techniques.

Space Saving Techniques
Interplanting—Grow two or more vegetables in one area by planting slow (long season) and fast maturing (short season) crops.

Succession planting—As soon as one crop is fi nished,
plant another.

Use vertical space—Use a trellis or fence to support pole beans, cucumbers, and squash. Cage or stake tomatoes.

Wide row planting—Scatter seeds over an 8- to 12-inch wide band rather than in a single row.

ORGANIC MATTER
A major basis for organic gardening is the use of abundant quantities of organic material applied to the soil. Usually, it is in the form of animal manures, plant manures, cover crops, compost, or mixed organic fertilizer.

Benefits of Adding Organic Matter

1. Improves tilth, condition, and structure of soil.
2. Improves ability of soil to hold water.
3. Improves ability of soil to hold nutrients.
4. Improves “buffering” capacity of soil; that is, keeps soil from “over-reacting”.
5. Supports the soil’s microbiological activity (or the life of the soil).
6. Contributes nutrients, both minor and major.
7. Releases nutrients slowly.
8. Acids arising from the decomposition of the organic matter help to convert insoluble natural additives such as ground rock into plant-usable
   forms.
9. Helps vegetables survive stress, as from nematodes.
10. Helps dispose of organic waste products.

Interplanting
Planting two or more different crops in the same row or bed without overcrowding is called interplanting. For example, mature pepper plants need a 12-inch spacing. After a pepper transplant is set into the garden, there will be space between plants that won’t be needed until the pepper plant matures. This leaves room between the peppers to plant a fast-growing crop, such as radishes, leaf lettuce or spinach. Remember that two or more of these planting methods may be combined. For instance, by combining succession planting with intercropping, beans can be sown a week or two before early cabbage is harvested and a staggered planting of broccoli would allow an interplanting of lettuce seedlings.